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Maker / Designer: Michael Hamma (1941-) for Smide & Form (founded 1985)
Made year: 1990s
Origin: Stockholm, Sweden
Dimensions: Bracelet size: ID 6.5 cm / Circ. 19,4 cm, Center Adornment 8 mm x 8 mm, Wt 43.9 g
Condition: consistent with general wear and age
This vintage bracelet is crafted in iron with a restrained, architectural presence. The iron band has a deep charcoal tone with a matte, lightly hammered surface that shows subtle irregularities and natural wear, giving it depth and character. The form is clean and circular, subtly adjustable at the front, where the design culminates in a striking centre element.
Set into the iron is a square gold mount holding a relatively large brilliant-cut diamond, approximately 0.25 ct, estimated H colour and VS clarity. The diamond is secured in a four-prong setting, not bezel-set, allowing light to enter freely and contrast sharply with the dark metal. On the wrist, the bracelet feels strong yet refined—industrial and elegant at once, with a quiet tension between raw iron and luminous gold.
Michael Hamma is a German-born goldsmith who, together with Hedvig Westermark, founded Smide & Form in Stockholm in 1985. Smide & Form is a Swedish jewelry studio known for hand-crafted work in gold and silver, and occasionally iron, with a strong emphasis on material, form, and traditional craftsmanship.