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Designer/Maker: unknown
Made year: early 19th century
Origin: from the Diplomat Johan Hultman's (1876-1958) collection
Dimensions: L 19 cm, approximate dimension top adornment W 25 mm x L 35 mm, Wt 20.9 g
Condition: Consistent with general wear and age
This early-19th-century bracelet is crafted in 14 karat gold and carved coral, with a strong sculptural presence. At the centre sits an oval coral plaque carved as a lion in relief, rendered in a warm, natural darker orange . The carving is framed by an openwork gold surround of fine scrollwork and looping wire forms, giving depth and air to the design while holding the coral.
On either side, carved coral figures shaped as stylised hippopotami follow the curve of the wrist with finely engraved gold terminals with flowing ornamental patterns that punctuate the design. The bracelet continues with repeated coral-and-gold sections of matching form, creating a continuous, articulated structure. The reverse shows careful construction, with coral and gold neatly joined and a concealed clasp integrated into the design.
Bold yet refined, the bracelet feels ceremonial, tactile, and richly expressive when worn.
Johan Hultman (1876-1958) held a distinguished diplomatic career in the early 20th century, serving in key international posts including London, Saint Petersburg, Shanghai, Tokyo and Beijing. Through his long service abroad, particularly in East Asia, he was exposed to different artistic traditions and cultures. The bracelet formed part of his personal collection, assembled during a career that placed him at the centre of international cultural exchange.